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TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Title 1 

Table of distances 5 

Location and boundaries 5 

Area . 6 

Physical features 6 

Kivers and streams 7 

Topography and hydrography 9 

Mineral springs 13 

Climate 14 

Bays and harbors 15 

Communications 17 

Distances to points on mainland of United States *. 18 

Cable and telegraph -. 18 

Koads and trails 19 

Population and towns 19 

List of towns, villages, and haciendas 20 

Census statistics 22 

Dependent islands 25 

Agricultural resources 25 

Vegetable products 26 

Minerals 27 

Forests 28 

Fruits 29 

Industries 30 

Fauna 31 

Commei'ce 31 

Coinage, weights, and measures 31 

Civil government - 32 

Political status r 32 

Historical events 33 

Public lands, taxes, and dues 33 

Appendix — Physiography of the Isle of Pines 35 

MAPS. 

Isle of Pines, surrounding waters, and mainland faces 5 

Puerto Frances and Siguanea Bay : faces 15 

Steamer routes from United States railway tide-water terminal points and connec- 
tions for Isle of Pines faces 17 

Towns, villages, haciendas, physical features, and roads faces 19 

3 



: 6>- /2f7Y 




ISLE OF PINES— SURROUNDING WATERS AND MAINLAND. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 

[see map.] 



(Y> * * * That the Isle of Pines shall be omitted from the proposed constitutional boundaries 
of Cuba, the title thereto being left to future adjustment by Treaty." — Act of Congress IT. S., approved i 
March 2, 1901.] 

Capital, Nueva Gerona; latitude 21° 57' N., longitude 82° 40' W. 
(approx.). 

Area, 986 square miles. 

Population, United States Census of 1899, 3,199; Spanish cen- 
sus of 1887, 1,992. 

Race, Spanish and colored. 

Language, Spanish. 

United States Military Department of Cuba, Headquarters, 
Habana. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

From Nueva Gerona — miles. 

To Batabano, NNE 65 

To Habana, N. by E., via Batabano 90 

To Miama, Fla., via Habana 238 

To New Orleans via Batabano and Habana 810 

To New Orleans by sea 828 

To Pensacola, Fla., via Batabano and Habana 713 

To Pensacola by sea 783 

To Tampa, Fla., via Batabano and Habana 350 

LOCATION AND BOUNDARIES. . 

The Isle of Pines, also called Reina Amalia, lies in a deep bight 
off the south coast of the western part of Cuba, between latitude 
21° 24' 40" and 21° 56' N., and longitude 82° 30' and 83° 12' W. 
Its extreme northwest point (de los Barcos) is 30 nautical or 34^ 
statute miles southeast of Punta de Carraguao (Pinar del Rio), the 
nearest land of Cuba. Its surrounding waters are the Caribbean 
Sea.* 

The island lies 730 miles (statute), across the Caribbean Sea, 
north of Grey town entrance to the Nicaragua canal; 850 miles 
north by west of Colon entrance to the Panama canal; 230 miles east 
of the nearest coast of Yucatan, Mexico, and 370 miles northwest 
of Jamaica. It is protected from approach on the north by the 
coast of Cuba and from all sides on the Caribbean Sea by the shallow 

5 



6 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

channels and innumerable keys, which can be easily mined. The 
island, in a defensible point of view, can be made impregnable at a 
minimum outlay. 

The Cuban provincial name of the island is "Quitrin," on account 
of the resemblance of its outline to the body of a chaise (volante). 

AREA. 

/ It is 34 miles from north to south and 43 miles from east to west 
on a line with Point Frances. Its area is 986 square miles, or 
631,040 acres, including the Cienaga, but 99 square miles less than 
the land superfices of the State of Rhode Island, and within 264 
square miles of its total of land and water. It is nearly equal in 
size to the combined area of the 1,360 other isles, islets, and keys 
which encircle Cuba. According to the "Derrotero de las Antillas" 
the island [its arable portions] is a square of 30 miles if a narrow 
i tongue which runs from its southwest corner 11 miles to the north- 
west is not considered. The greatest length is from northeast to 
southwest, 43 miles, and breadth at the center from east to west 
32 miles, and in the south 43 miles. 

PHYSICAL FEATURES. 

The island has a geological relation to the general chain of 
insular mainlands of the Antilles, and is unlike the numerous low 
coral and sand formations known as keys and mangrove swamps 
scattered in such profusion off the coast. In general the surface / 
is a plateau of 50 to 100 feet above sea level, broken by ridges of 
hills or cliffs that project abruptly above the general surface. 

The two mountain ridges at the northern end reach an elevation 
of about 1,500 feet, and are composed of limestone and marble. 
The other ridges in the center are much lower, less precipitous, and 
formed of gray sandstone, red rock, and gravel, containing iron. 

The most remarkable summits are the Sierra de la Canada, 1,600 
feet high, with precipices 150 feet; Daguila, 1,500 feet high, from 
the summit of which may be had a view of the entire island; Sierra 
de Caballos, 1,074 feet high; Mount Casas, about 2 miles from the 
latter, composed of beautiful marbles of various colors, and Mount 
Cristales, of moderate height, its sides being covered abundantly 
with green rock crystals. 

The southern part, comprising about one-third of the entire area, 
is an impassable cienaga or salt bayou and lagoon, interspersed by 
islets and rocky ledges of locally known " dog-tooth" or coral rock, 
and occupied by fishermen. There is a small open lake on the south 
of the causeway, which connects with the higher ground. 



THE ISLE OE PINES. 7 

A chain of islets from its extreme east point, called the Islas de 
Mangles, extends in a northwesterly direction into the bight, which 
is filled with a number of small keys. From the southeastern shore 
at Piedras Point another chain of keys extends eastwardly to a 
point southwest of Cienfuegos. North of these lie the Jardines 
and Jardinillos banks, a very shallow body of water, so named on 
account of their verdure-strewn islets, in many of which springs of 
pure water bubble up from the deep. These banks and keys, 
extending east and west like curtains from the island and the 
cienaga on the south of the mainland, form an impassable line of 
defense against attack from the Caribbean Sea. 

The whole island, with the exception of the rocky southern coast, 
is surrounded by mangrove swamps, with here and there a stretch 
of sandy beach. 

The island has a number of rivers of excellent water, the most 
important of which emptying on the north coast are the Nuevas, 
composed of several mountain tributaries, 5 to 10 feet deep, and 
navigable 4 or 5 miles; the Sierra de Casas, also composed of sev- 
eral mountain branches, near the mouth of which Nueva Gerona is 
situated, and accessible by vessels drawing 5 feet. On the north- 
east coast is the Santa Fe, formed of many streams, on the main 
one of which, navigable for small craft, the town of the same name 
is situated. On the east coast is the Guayabo. The cienaga or 
swamp on the south receives the mountain drainage through the 
outlets of nine streams. On the west coast are no streams of 
importance. 

RIVERS AND STREAMS. 

The drainage of the island is represented by the following rivers 
and streams: 

Bernardino.— A rivulet tributary to the Sante Fe on the south. 

Callejon, Rio del. — Near the west coast; rises in the Sierra 
San Jose; flows north by east past Santa Teresa and La Nuevas. 
Of the stream of the latter name it is the west tributary. 

Casas Rio de Sierra. — Rises in the highlands of the north near 
Santa Rosalia. It flows north, passes Nueva Gerona, the capital, 
to which point it is navigable for the steamer which plies between 
the island and Batabano on the Cuban coast, and enters the sea 
about the center of the north coast of the island between Fuera 
and Barcos points. 

Cayamas. — A rivulet which, rising east of Asiento de Santa Fe 
and flowing northeast, is lost in the lagoons near the coast south of 
the mouth of the Santa Fe. 



8 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

Citerna. — The larger and western of the many tributaries of the 
Las Nuevas, rising in the Sierra de la Canada in the southwest of the 
island. 

Grande. — A small stream rising south of Sierra Seiba and empty- 
ing into the Cienaga on the south. 

Guayabo. — Rises in the vicinity of San Juan on the east, and 
flowing northeast empties into the sea south of Potrero Point, east 
coast. 

Indios, Rio de los. — Rises in the Sierra de la Canada, flows west 
past San Antonio, and empties into Siguanea Bay on its northeast 
shore southeast of Majagua Point. 

It abo. — A small stream emptying on the east shore of Siguanea 
Bay. 

Jagua, Rio de la. — Rises on the south watershed of the Sierra de 
la Seiba, flows southeast into the Cienaga on the east between the 
Cayo de Piedras and Boca de la Cienaga. 

Mal Pais. — Rises on the east slopes of the same summit as the 
Nuevas and, flowing northeast, enters the Santa Fe at Jucaro, to 
which point the main stream is navigable. 

Medio, Rio del. — A tributary of the Rio de las Nuevas, entering 
that stream on its east shore near its mouth on the north coast. 

Nuevas, Rio de las. — The largest river on the island, rising in 
the same central summits which feed the Rio Mal Pais, Santa Fe, 
and Jagua. It receives its larger tributaries, Citerna, Callej on on the 
west, and Medio on the east, the latter near its mouth on the north 
coast east of Point de los Barcos. 

San Pedro. — Rises in the lulls of that name near the southwest 
center and empties into the Boca de la Cienaga, in the northeast angle 
of Siguanea Bay. 

Santa Fe. — One of the most important streams, but not the 
largest, with many small tributaries; it rises about the center of 
the island and, flowing northeast, enters the bight between points 
Fuera and Potrero. On the main stream is situated the town of 
the same name and important thermal springs. (See "Thermal 
Springs.") It is also navigable to Jucaro (see). 

Santiago. — Rises between the Cerros del Aji and La Seiba and 
flows southeast, emptying into the Cienaga on the southeast near 
the Boca de la Cienaga. 

Siguanea, Rio de la. — Rises on the southern declivities of Sierra 
de la Canada and, flowing south, empties into the Cienaga mouth j.n 
the northeast angle of Siguanea Bay. 

Tinas, Arroya de las. — A rivulet rising south of hill of del Monte 
and empties into the Cienaga on the west. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 9 

"The Universal Geography," by Elisee Reclus, Volume XVII, 
referring to the interesting physical characteristics of the island, 
says: 

Manzanillo Bay * * * . Farther on, the Isle of Pines is connected with a labyrinth 
of reefs and islets, of which the best known are those of the Jardines Bank and the Jardinillos, 
forming a seaward prolongation of the Marsh of Zapata. In the Jardines, so named from 
verdure-clad islets strewn like "gardens" amid the blue waters, springs of fresh water 
bubble up from the deep, flowing probably in subterranean galleries from the mainland. 

The Isle de Pinos (Pinos Island or Isle of Pines), which lies off the southwest coast of 
Cuba, is alone more extensive than all the other 1,300 isles and islets strewn around the 
Cuban seaboard. It consists in reality of two islands separated by a tortuous passage, 
half channel, half swamp, which winds at nearly uniform width for about 3 miles from west 
to east. This cienaga, or "marsh," as the Spaniards call it, is a riviere salee (salt river) 
analogous to that of Guadeloupe. 

Toward its eastern extremity a few rocky ledges flush with the water have been utilized 
to make a camino de piedra (stone causeway) between the two sections of the island. A 
great contrast is prescribed by these sections; that on the north is diversified with "sierras," 
groups of hills and isolated eminences, one of the summits in the Sierra de la Canada rising 
to a height of 1,540 feet; but the southern section is everywhere low, although the swampy 
savannas and impassable quagmires are here and there interrupted by sharp rocks, inter- 
sected by fissures and pierced by seborucos or pits. 

This part of the island seems to have been upheaved in relatively recent times, for even 
within the historic period islets on the coasts have been submerged in continuous land by 
the mangrove thickets spreading over the intervening straits and shallows. 

TOPOGRAPHY AND HYDROGRAPHY. 

According to the "Diccionario Enciclopedico Hispano Ameri- 
cano, " volume 15, Barcelona, 1894, quoting the "Derrotero de las 
Antillas"— 

The island is divided by a swamp sometimes impassable in its southern portion, which 
is in general very low and marshy. Its northern portion, which is mountainous and con- 
tains many rivers which are navigable for vessels drawing from 8.3 to 9.3 feet, is entirely 
covered with thick woods, where good pine is found; the inhabitants engage in cattle 
raising, and most of them reside in Nueva Gerona, a small place situated in the northern 
portion, composed of guano and yagua huts. The island can be distinguished from a dis- 
tance of 45 miles in the south by three mountains, of which the highest and western one, 
which belongs to the San Jose Sierra, although having three peaks, appears to be one until 
its meridian is passed to the west; and, according to the point whence one looks at it, it 
presents on the northern coast the Sierra de Caballos, which can be seen 30 miles away. In 
the center is the Sierra de la Canada and the Siguanea hill, which, when approaching the 
west coast, may be seen at a distance of more than 30 miles; and the peak of La Daguilla, 
nearer the eastern coast. Alejandro Helvecio Lanier, in his "Geography of the Isle of 
Pines," says that the total area is 614.34 sq. marine miles, or 211,000 hectares (1 hectare= 
2,471 a.), of which the northern portion occupies 133,000 and the southern 78,000, taking 
the straits of Cayo de Piedra and the bed of every large creek as dividing points. Its 
greatest length is from the eastern extremity to French Cape (Frances) 16f legal leagues, 



10 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

or 70f kilometers (43^ miles), and its greatest width on the meridian 76° 1' 2", 12f leagues, 
or 53f kilometers (33 miles). Its nearest point to the Island of Cuba is distant 10 J leagues 
(29 miles) from Barcos Point to the point of the Palacios River in a northwest direction, 
and 24| leagues (66.3 miles) from the mouth of the river Sierra de Casas to Batabano. 

The northern portion of the island is covered with pine trees, and the ground is to a large 
extent sandy. Only on the banks of the rivers and around the mountains lands of good 
quality are to be found, good for the cultivation of anything and the growing of wood of 
all the species known in Cuba. The southern portion is perfectly level and very little 
above sea level. It is covered with trees of all kinds, which grow among rugged and sharp 
stones, called " seborucos," which render a passage through these thickets exceedingly 
difficult and the removal of the many useful woods almost impossible. 

The littoral, from the mouth of the Sierra de Casas River to the foot of the Columpo is 
very low, being at sea level at almost every point. Only near the edge is it about half a 
yard above. As far as 600 varas (1,666 feet) to the interior it is continually overflowed, 
not only because it is at sea level, but because it receives the waters from the plains and 
from various small creeks. All these low lands are covered with mangrove trees and lianas 
so dense that they are impassable. The banks of the Sierra de Casas River are also cov- 
ered with similar trees, especially the western one, as far as the town. The foot of the 
Columpo is composed entirely of stones and enormous rocks, which appear to have broken 
away from its summit. From the Columpo to the Punta de Piedra the coast is a stretch 
of fine white sand, slightly higher than that on the other side of the Columpo and much 
wider and cleaner. Forty varas (111 feet) from the edge the land gradually descends until 
it reaches sea level, the greater portion being overflown. Near the Columpo is situated a 
forest of high trees containing a number of useful woods. Piedra Cape is composed of 
rocks, and to the west, at a distance of 442 varas (1,228 feet), is situated the Piedra del 
Indio, which is likewise a rock. From Piedra Cape, the lands adjoining the coast continue 
low and marshy. These marshy lands contain various kinds of mangrove trees (mangles, 
prietos, and patabanes) up to near the mouth of Simon Creek, where there are mangroves 
"de una." This creek forms, before emptying into the sea, a large lake and inundates the 
surrounding land up to near the Bibijagua and the Morrillo. The shore of Los Flamencos 
is that which follows to the southwest of the Morillo. It is separated from the leeward 
coast only by a strip 90 varas (252 feet) wide at its narrowest point. The other two points 
are formed by the ends of the Bibijagua Sierra. Between them lies a stretch of sand, and 
50 varas (138 feet) from the coast the forest at the foot of the sierra begins. 

The coast from the Bibijagua Sierra goes in the same direction as the last named, but a 
little before Salinas Point there is a natural salt deposit 500 varas (1,472 feet) long. From 
the first to the third Salinas point the land next to the coast for a distance of 25 varas (69 
feet) is at sea level, but it forms large, clean, salt pits, without any trees. These natural 
salt deposits, which it would be easy to work, increase in width to the west, forming large 
tracts. From here on these tracts are very large, and from the shores of the Cocodrilos 
to the mouth of the Santa Fe River the sea connects with them directly, being separated 
therefrom only by a narrow strip of mangrove trees. The place where these tracts are 
largest is at Point Fuera. 

From the mouth of the Santa Fe River to the Grande Estuary the entire coast consists 
of an impenetrable marsh. Thence to the eastern point it is possible to land only at the 
Caudal wharf and at the points of Rancho Vie jo and Piedra. The mangrove thicket con- 
tinues still farther to the south of the east point and reaches the point where the shore of the 



THE ISLE OP PINES. 11 

south coast begins, where a small hut is situated, built of guano by fishermen. From this 
point, called the "Rancheria of the East," begins a stretch of sand half a league long, which 
forms a shallow bay. At the end of this sandy stretch begins the stone coast, continuing 
as far as Seboruco Alto and Brava Point, Here the "Playa Larga" begins, which is com- 
posed entirely of sand. At the same point a swamp § of a league (2 miles) wide begins, 
which stops at the head of the Guanal. It is an absolutely impenetrable marsh. The 
greatest distance between the coast and the swamp is 300 varas (834 feet), and the shortest 
80 (240 feet). The elevation of this land above sea level is not more than 3 varas (8J feet) 
as far as the point of Curazao, where the elevation is slightly higher, reaching 8 varas (22 
feet) at Canoa Point, and continues at this elevation almost to the head of the Guanal,. 
where it is barely 1 vara (33.384 inches). The water of this swamp is salty and not potable. 
Pure water can not be found at less than 400 varas (1,111 feet) leeward from Maracayero 
Point. This swamp contains two estuaries by which it empties into the sea. The prin- 
cipal one is the Siguaneita. The second, which is very small, is located 120 varas (333$ feet) 
to the north of Guanal Point. The entire Playa Larga, from Brava to Guanal Point, has 
a sandy bottom with some stones and 6 feet of water at its lowest depth. 

Half a mile south of Curazao Point is situated a bank even with the surface of the water. 
Eight hundred and fifty varas (236 feet) SSW. from the latter are situated two similar ones 
and some other lower ones. The rest of the stretch is unobstructed. The reefs and rocks 
begin at Brava Point, run to the southeast 1 mile as far as the quebrado (opening) of Barlo- 
vento, which are covered by 9 feet of water, continue south 700 varas[(l,945 feet), and then 
WSW. as far as Guanal Cape, approaching the coast. In these reefs there are four openings 
which permit an entry into the Playa Larga." The first, already mentioned, 1 mile south of 
Brava Point; the second, opposite the Bay of Llimtete; the third, south of Curazao Point, 
and the fourth, the largest, is that of Guanal Cape, which is nearly 1 mile wide. 

From the mouth of Sierra de Casas River to Barcos Point the coast land is low and 
swampy, almost level with the sea. The trees in this swamp are mangroves, yanas, and 
patabanes, which extend as far as the water's edge, which is sandy. There are 3 feet of 
water and a sandy bottom up to 50 yards of the edge. Barcos Point is an impassable man- 
grove thicket at sea level. At the end of the bay there is a small estuary which connects 
with the sea north of the point, but it is impossible to traverse it with any vessel unless it is 
dragged over the mud. This bay is surrounded with swamps. The marshy lands continue 
very nearly to the Capitan Estuary, where a sandy stretch begins and continues as far as 
the Pino Estuary, which has two mouths; that of the north 1 foot deep and 40 paras wide,, 
the other SSE. of the latter about 150 varas (416 feet), 3 feet deep, but narrow and hardly 
visible. On each side of the first estuary are swamps and lakes of salt water, which continue 
along the banks of the sea as far as Buena Vista Point and thence along the entire edge of 
the Bay of Siguanea, which begins at this point. The coast from said Buena Vista Point 
runs southeast to the mouth of the large swamp called Siguanea. Two and one-half miles 
distant is situated the Soldado Estuary, which is very small and the mouth of which is J of a 
league (0.675 mile) WSW. from the hill of the same name. Majagua Point is 4^ miles from 
Buena Vista Point. ' 

Along the entire coast of the Bay of Siguanea no river but the Indios empties, which has a 
very small mouth. Farther on we come to French Cape, or the small key called Cayuelo,. 
there being a distance of 3J miles therefrom to Cocodrilo Point on the bay. The port, called 
Frances (French), consists of the bay which lies between Pedernales Point and the small 



12 THE ISLE OF PINES.' 

tongue of land of La Rancheria. SSW. of this point, 120 varas (133 feet) distant, there is a 
small key 24 varas (66 feet) from northeast to southwest, and 70 (194 feet) from north to 
south. Between this small key and the land there is only 1 foot of water. This port has a 
fair capacity and sufficient water for merchant vessels; but vessels can not anchor at the 
entrance in 6 fathoms nor inside in 2, because the bottom is composed of large and rugged 
stones, with deep fissures, where the anchors would be lost. In the middle in 3 fathoms is a 
good sand and stone anchorage. The port is protected from the southeast, east, and north- 
east winds, but not from those coming from the third and fourth quadrants. This is one 
of the reasons which force an anchorage as far out as possible in order to facilitate an easy 
departure in case of being surprised by the last-named winds. Vessels of small draft may in 
such case seek refuge behind Cape French, where there are two arms, having a mud bottom, 
entering the same from the north, which is 8 feet deep. 

The bay to the north of the Rancheria is closed on the west by reefs, and the passages in 
the latter have water sufficient only for small vessels, such as boats and canoes. Between 
the reefs and the coast there is an innumerable number of rocks beneath the surface of the 
water which make this region very difficult to navigate even for canoes, for which reason 
fishermen and guides living there have marked out the channels which lead to the Rancheria 
Point from this side. The edge of this bay and that of the north of La Vigia, as far as Cape 
Frances, is a sandy stretch. Fifteen varas (42 feet) from the water's edge the land is 3 varas 
(8 feet) above sea level, and from this point the elevation decreases until the swamp is 
reached, 120 to 150 varas (333 to 416 feet) distant. The southern beach or bank of La 
Rancheria or Port Frances is composed of quicksands and of flat stones at the water's edge, 
preventing the landing of vessels. At the end of this bank there are some rocks 3 varas 
(8 feet) high and 9 feet of water next to them with a stone bottom. One hundred varas 
(28 feet) NNE. of this point is situated a small cove with so little water that it is difficult 
for canoes even to enter it, the bottom being of stone. From this point to the northwest 
point of the key which forms Cape Frances, there is a distance of 3| miles in a straight line 
in a direction running from southeast 18°. Two and three-fourths miles southeast 29° V 2" 
from Pedernales Point, is situated Lugo Point, and \ mile north the cove of the same name. 
To the northwest there is a small bay which has a sandy shore, and southeast a high rock 
which extends to the center of the bay, where there are fishing banks. It has 3 feet of water 
and a sandy and stone bottom. At the end of the bay, north of Lugo Bay, there is another 
small bay, Ingles, 1^ miles southeast of Pedernales Point. Two and one-half miles from 
Lugo Point is situated the Grande Bay; then follow the Caletones, Cocodrilo points and 
the bay of the same name. From French Cape to Cocodrilos, carey fishing is very good. 
Then follows Infierno Bay, north of which is a large lake ; Jorobado Bay, where 1 two creeks 
empty; Diablo Bay, 3 miles from the latter; Purgatorio and Carapachivey bays, the 
largest of all on the southern side of the Island, with a mouth more than \ league (0.6479 
mile). Finally we come to Augustin Fol Bay. There is a distance of 4 miles from this bay 
to the head of the Guanal. 

The mountains of the Isle of Pines, by order of elevation, are: Canada, Daguilla, Caballos, 
Sierra Casas del Sur, Sierra Casas del Norte, San Pedro, del Monte, de la Seiba, Lacunagua, 
Mai Pais, Aji, La Manigua, San Jose (last hill in the south), Sierra Pequefia, Columpo, 
Bibijagua, etc. The Canada Sierra, the highest, is 1,653 feet above sea level and 1,335 feet 
on its base. The base is 1 league (2.7 miles) long in a northwest to southeast direction. It 
is covered with pines up to the summit, which can be easily ascended on the north side; on 
the south there are high perpendicular cliffs. The Siguanea, Indies, and Cisterna rivers 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 13 

rise on this range. It is 5 leagues (13.5 miles) from the town of Nueva Gerona and 2$ 
(7 miles) from Siguanea Baj\ Daguilla is 1 ,476 feet above sea level and 1 ,290 upon its base. 
Its figure is that of a cone with the base \ league {l\ miles) in diameter. The northern part 
is covered with woods half way to the summit. In these woods may be found the Lagetta 
lintearia. The other parts of this range are covered with pasture lands and its ascent on 
the south side is very difficult. The Caballos Sierra is 1,074 feet above sea level. The 
foot of the sierra is 2,400 varas (about 1$ miles) from east to west from the Sierra de Casas 
River and 50 varas (11 J feet) above sea level. This range is accessible only on the north- 
west side and on the southeast, there being perpendicular cliffs almost everywhere, especially 
on the west. It is entirely covered with woods, and on the east side good timber for ship 
and house building may be found. The trees which are most abundant on the east are the 
yayas, guairajes, robles, cedar, sabicues, etc. This sierra runs NNW. and SSE. and in 
this direction is 3,163 castilian varas (1=0.914 U. S. yard) long, occupying a space of 12£ 
caballerias (416 acres). Marbles of various colors and qualities constitute part of this 
range. The Casas Sierras are two ranges running from north to south 1 league, being 
divided by a level and red stretch of land 350 varas (972 feet) wide. The western part of 
this valley is rather broken, some creeks being formed which empty into Muertos Creek. 
The Casas del Sur Sierra is 4,037 castilian varas (1=0.914 U. S. yard) from the town of 
Nueva Gerona. Its base has a length from north to south of 2,534 varas (586 feet), and a 
width from east to west of 1,192 (311 feet). Its elevation above sea level is 1,035 feet 
It is covered with trees of the same kind as are found on the Caballos Sierra. It is inacces- 
sible on the north and northwest, but may easily be ascended on the south and east. On 
the north it has two cliffs, the sides of which are perpendicular. Between them there is a 
stretch of land containing about \ caballeria (17 acres) called "Los Hondones," which is 
entered by a very narrow neck. This place is naturally inclosed by high cliffs, the trees 
and vegetation being exuberant. The eastern cliff is 903 feet above sea level and 876 varas 
(2,433 feet) distant from the principal peak. That of the west is of the same height. The 
mass of the mountain is clayey, as is the Sierra de Caballos, and- on the summit may be 
found an abundance of loose carbonate of lime. The Casas del Norte Sierra is 924 feet 
high, rising almost perpendicularly from level ground. It is inaccessible from almost 
every side. It consists of four peaks running from north to south. The first, on the north, 
is the lowest, and the height of the others increases progressively. Useful woods can be 
found at the foot of the mountains and halfway to the summit, but are not as abundant 
as on the other mountains referred to. At the foot of the mountain, on the southeast, 
there are in the rainy season some small lakes, formed by the water from the sierras and 
adjoining plateaus. These lakes dry up after the rainy season is over. Of the other eleva- 
tions of the island, the only ones worthy of mention are the Sierra Pequeria, south of that 
of Caballos, with good woods; the Columpo Sierra, consisting of six peaks and masses of 
blue and white marble, where there was an intention of establishing fortifications, com- 
manding, as it does, the Columpo and Bibijagua lakes, and the Bibijaguna Sierra, covered 
with woods to the summit; to the northwest of the latter is situated the morillo of Bibijagua. 
The principal and onlynavigable rivers of the island are the Santa Fe, Casas, and Nuevas. 

MINEEAL SPRINGS. 

I The mineral springs, for which the island has a world-wide rep- \ 
utation, judged from official and individual certification as to cura- 1 



t 



14 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

tive properties and results of the waters, are remarkable, especially 
in pulmonary, rheumatic, and throat affections. 

A chemical analysis shows the waters to be impregnated with 
oxygen and carbonic acid gases, chloride of sodium, sulphate of lime, 
carbonate of lime, iron, magnesia, chloride of calcium, nitrate of 
lime, silex, and extractic organic matter. Temperature of water 
82° F. The regimen of treatment is two baths of a quarter of an 
hour each and four glasses, taken inwardly, per day. The baths 
are erected over the springs. The testimonials of the beneficial 
effects of bathing and drinking are numerous, among others being 
a case of bronchial trouble requiring caustic treatment of the throat 
which was cured in ten days and without a recurrence of the com- 
plaint. It is claimed that the waters rival Saratoga in the United, 
States. 

CLIMATE. 

/ The climate is described as "delicious, the air pure and balmy 
/ and, notwithstanding the island being surrounded by water, is con- 
/ sidered dry. The winds coining from the sea and passing over the 
pine forests are gentle and invigorating." The year is divided into 
*• two seasons. During the wet (lluviosa), or summer, the rains begin 
early in June and last until October, seldom more than two hours in 
the afternoon, and are accompanied by thunder and lightning. The 
greatest rainfall is in May, June, and July, although there is no 
month entirely free from rain. During this wet season about two- 
thirds of the precipitation of the year is received. The day is usually 
clear until 10 a. m., after which it is showery until night. The nights 
are clear. The hottest hours are from 10 to 12 a. m. About 2.30 
p. m. the breeze (la virazon) blowing in from the sea moderates the 
temperature. At night the copious dews contribute to the luxuri- 
ance of vegetation. 

The dry season (seca), or winter, extends from October to June, 
with occasional visitations from November to February of los nortes 
(cold winds blowing from the north) lasting about forty-eight hours, 
when the temperature falls to 50, but is not as uncomfortable as the 
March winds in the States. This season is not entirely without pre- 
cipitation, the days of rain numbering about one-third of the wet 
season. The annual rainfall ranges from* 50 to 52 inches, or less than 
on the Gulf Coast of the States. The average rainy days is 10 in the 
month, and the average humidity for the year 75 per cent. 

The annual temperature of Habana, less than 90 miles in a straight 
line north, is, mean maximum 82 \° to 84° F., mean minimum 71°. 
The highest temperature on record is 100.6° and lowest 49.6°. The 
mean annual temperature is 75°. The heat is oppressive on account 
of the moisture. The prevailing winds of the Isle of Pines are the 



10 Cables. 



O 



Sea Mile. 



S IG UANEA 
JBAY 



W 




ISLE OF PINES— PUERTO FRANCES. 

Anchorage (approx.): Latitude 21° 34' 30" N., longitude 83° 11' 11" W. Soundings in fathoms 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 15 

northeast trades, which blow with but little variation throughout 
the year, rendering the nights cool both in winter and summer. 

The range of temperature between summer and winter rarely 
exceeds a mean of 11°. 

Hurricanes are less frequent than in Cuba. In March, April, or 
May slight earthquakes are sometimes felt. The most damaging 
hurricanes occurred in 1774, 1844, 1846, 1865, 1870, 1876, 1885, and 
1894, and earthquakes, especially in the eastern portion of the main- 
land, principally in Santiago de Cuba, in 1776, 1842, and 1852. 

The "Derrotero de las Antillas," referring to the climatic condi- 
tions, says: 

r The climate of Pinos is among the healthiest known. No yellow fever, nor choleraX 
which in former years decimated the population of Cuba, ever made its appearance here. \ 
Although south of Cuba, its temperature is lower on account of the winds which are always / 
blowing. From all parts, from Cuba as well as from the United States, the sick come to/ 
be cured by the pure air and beneficial waters of its springs and creeks. / 



I 



BAYS AND HARBORS. 



Cape Frances, at the extreme point of a rocky crescent-shaped pen- 
insula extending into the ocean, forms the spacious bay and anchor- 
age of Siguanea on the southwest. A small key connected with the 
point is the home of numbers of enormous crocodiles (rJiombifer. 
Bibron) known under the Cuban name "caiman." On the shores of 
the point are found great quantities of rare and beautiful shells and 
coral. 

From this anchorage vessels drawing 20 feet can pass northward 
around the island as far as Nueva Gerona inside the keys that lie 
some 6 miles off the coast. From Frances to Indian Point to the 
northeast it is 16 miles and trends inland 18 miles. The bay has a 
depth from If fathoms (10^ feet) to 5| fathoms (33 feet). The ship 
channel referred to is entirely protected from the seaward side of 
the Indian keys. 

Estero del Pino is an indentation in the extreme projection about 
the center of the western coast of the Isle of Pines, and is fed by a 
small stream which rises in the vicinity of San Jose, a village on the 
western slope of the sierra of the same name, and at the terminus of 
the trail extending from Nueva Gerona west to Santa Teresa and 
Las Nuevas, thence SSW. to San Jose. From this point a road is 
projected along the western and southwestern base of Sierra de San 
Jose to Canada, in the sierra of that name, an important road cen- 
ter in the southwestern part of the island. 

The land in this vicinity conforms to the general topography of 
the country, and has patches of soil suitable to the cultivation of 
the staples of the island. 

S. Doc. 311, 59-1 2 



16 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

The estuary has two mouths, that on the north 1 foot deep and 
111 feet wide, the other, on the south, 3 feet deep and about 140 
yards wide. In the vicinity, along the shore, are salt swamps and 
lakes. 

On the southern coast, which is rocky and dangerous, is the small 
harbor of Carapachivey, on a pathway on rocky ledges. 

On the northwest coast is the small shallow bay of Barcos, and on 
the southeast coast the small bay of Cienaga. (See Topography.) 

The only two landings — Nueva Gerona, on the Rio Sierra de Casas, 
and Jucaro, on the Rio Santa Fe — are accessible to vessels drawing 
5 feet of water, owing to the shallowness of the bars at the river 
mouth. 

The directions referring to the anchorage of Puerto Frances are 
intended for sailing vessels and based -upon the idea that such ves- 
sels may have to get under way suddenly with an unfavorable wind. 
For other vessels a better anchorage is found in the bight north of 
Point Pedernales, with that point bearing S. 3° W. true and in from 
5 to 9 fathoms of water. This anchorage has been repeatedly occu- 
pied by United States vessels and found very satisfactory, the hold- 
ing ground being found good all over this part of the bight. 

Carapachivey Cove, on the south coast, approximate position lat- 
itude 21° 26' 45" N., longitude 82° 55' 39" W., is of considerable size, 
affording a safe and commodious anchorage well sheltered to the 
northward between west-northwest and east-southeast and offering 
a convenient refuge for vessels of any size from northerly gales. The 
bottom is of hard coral, and holding ground is not good enough for 
strong onshore winds. The soundings range from 3 to 8 feet near 
the shore, 10 to 30 feet in the center, and from 30 to 75 feet at the 
entrance to the cove. 

The cove may be found by bringing the middle and largest of three 
prominent peaks in the interior of the Isle of Pines to bear about 
N. 8° 30' E. true and standing in on this bearing. It may further 
be recognized by a large and conspicuous Cuban house on the north- 
western side of the cove. This house is surrounded by cocoanut 
trees, and near it are five other cocoanut trees in a row. 

A good anchorage may be found with the Cuban house on the 
northwest side of the cove bearing about N. 17° W. true, and the 
eastern point of the cove S. 53° E. true. 

In the northeastern part of the cove is a small anchorage, marked 
by stakes, where fishing vessels find good shelter in 8 feet of water. 

The tides are reported to have a range of from 2 to 2\ feet. 

No supplies of water can be had here. 

About 3 miles to the eastward of Carapachivey is another cove 
closed by a chain of rocks, visible some distance offshore. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. , 17 

A recent hydrographic examination shows that the line of reefs 
which extends along the whole southern border of the Jardines and 
Jardinillos makes a pronounced dip to the southward. In this longi- 
tude the reef is from 2 to 3 miles farther off the cays than is indicated 
on existing charts. The cays are themselves about 3 miles farther 
south than charted. 

The reef, as it recedes on either side of this section, has rather 
more water and breaks less conspicuously, so that a vessel standing 
in from the southward upon this most advanced point of the reef, 
or observing it from that side, seems to have to do with an isolated 
reef. 

A large number of lines of soundings were run over an area some 
10 miles square extending east, west, and south of this point. There 
is no other shoal in the vicinity. 

The bank all along this part of the reef lies from § to f mile off the 
breakers, soundings beginning in 15 and 17 fathoms at the edge of 
the bank. The breakers can be plainly seen at a distance of several 
miles. 

- COMMUNICATIONS. 

The United States railroad systems having terminals at south 
Atlantic and Gulf ports are in touch with the island via Habana as 
follows : 

Pennsylvania Railroad and southern connections via Tampa or 
Miami to Habana. 

Louisville and Nashville Railroad and steamers from Pensacola, 
also from New Orleans, and steamship line to Habana. 

From Habana south by railway, 25 miles, to Batabano, two hours; 
thence to Santa Fe and Nueva Gerona by weekly steamer. The 
entire trip consumes about ten hours. Also weekly connections 
with other points on the south coast. 

Joint rates, concurred in by all the lines interested, are as follows: 

From New York or Philadelphia, Pa., Pennsylvania Railroad to 
Washington and via southern connections, Washington Southern 
Railway and Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad to 
Richmond; Atlantic Coast Line to Charleston and Plant System to 
Port Tampa, or Plant Sj^stem to Jacksonville, and Florida East 
-Coast Railway to Miami; Port Tampa or Miami via Peninsular and 
Occidental Steamship Company (single rate), $54.50. 

From Habana, Cuba, to Batabano by railroad, thence to Nueva 
Gerona, Isle of Pines, by steamer, $10.50 (gold); the rate from 
Washington to Habana, $54.50. 

The Louisville and Nashville System affords through rail connec- 
tions from Cincinnati, Louisville, or St. Louis to Pensacola, connect- 



18 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 



ing with the Louisville and Nashville Steamship Company at Pen- 
sacola, Fla., or the steamship line from New Orleans, La., to Habana, 
Cuba, thence to Nueva Gerona via Batabano. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

NUEVA GERONA, ISLE OF PINES, TO POINTS ON THE MAINLAND OF THE UNITED STATES. 

From Nueva Gerona to — Miles. 

Batabano, Cuba, water 54 

Habana via Batabano, water, 54 miles, rail, 36 miles 90 

From Habana (distance from Habana, to points named in United States add 90 miles distance 
from Nueva Gerona to Habana via Batabano) . 



To— 


United States. 
Distance via 
Port Tampa. 


United States. 
Distance via 
New York. 


Cuba. 
Distance by — 


Remarks. 




Rail. 


Water. 


Rail. | Water. 


Rail. 


Water. 




603 


337 














388 

188 


1,350 
1,350 










1,056 


337 










36 








1,474 


337 


217 ! 1,350 
411 1 1,350 
739 i 1,350 
847 1,350 
912 1 . 350 




Buffalo, N. Y 








Charleston, S. C* 

Chattanooga, Term 


504 
741 
1,334 
1,079 
1,323 
2,120 
1,539 
1,340 
3,571 

1,160 
249 


337 

337 

337 

*337 

337 

*337 

*337 

337 

* 1,456 

*337 
337 




738 


* 738 miles direct by water. 










757 

584 

1,937 

1,268 

662 

3,149 

825 
995 


1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
2,469 

1,350 
1,350 






*Via Atlanta, Ga. 
















* Via Atlanta, Ga. 
















* Via Atlanta, Ga. 






* Via Chicago, 111., and Seat- 


Indianapolis, Ind 




tle, Wash. 
*Via Jacksonville, Fla. 








Key West, Fla 






87 




Manila, P. I.* 






3,229 
1,157 


8,648 
1,350 




*Via Nagasaki, Japan. 


Memphis, Tenn 


* 1,021 


337 






*Via Atlanta, Ga. 




240 






* 1,419 

892 
1,244 
2,653 
1,623 
1,153 


337 

337 

*337 

*337 

337 

*337 


997 
998 

2, 435 

1,405 

91 


1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 




*Via Jacksonville, Fla. 








*Via Jacksonville, Fla. 


New York, N. Y.* 






* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 


Ogden, Utah 






* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 








Philadelphia, Pa 






* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 




337 




Portland, Oreg 


*3,442 
886 
1,442 
3,352 
389 
1,210 
1,744 
1,016 
1,126 


337 
337 


3,224 
343 


1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 




* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 










337 1,918 
337 3,229 
*337 i 840 
337 1,065 
337 1,322 
337 228 
337 118 








































Washington, D. C 

Wilmington, Del 








' 








i 





The cienaga in the south is inaccessible except by footpath on the 
land side and by sail from Nueva Gerona. 

CABLE, TELEGRAPH, AND TELEPHONE. 

The nearest cable and telegraph station in communication with 
the United States is Batabano, 65 miles on the mainland of Cuba, 
reached by steamer. A telephone line connects Nueva Gerona and 
Santa Fe with a projected extension to Jucaro. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 19 

ROADS AND TRAILS. 

Several roads or trails extend to all parts of the island, begin- 
ning at Nueva Gerona; one south to Santa Fe, and thence contin- 
uing across the eastern end of Cienaga Lagoon, communicates 
with the south coast at Punta Brava. Another from Nueva Gerona 
and still another from Santa Fe unite and terminate on the north- 
eastern shore of Siguanea Bay. From these main lines branch 
roads or trails extend to the villages of the interior. 

The Sierra de los Cristales, or Crystal Hill, an elevated summit 
about the center of the island 12 miles from Santa Fe, is reached 
over a good road through a wild but picturesque country alter- 
nating between beautiful meadows and pine forests. The sides of 
the hill are barren and rocky and without vegetation. From its 
summit may be seen Nueva Gerona to the north, the Sierras Daquilla 
and de la Canada screening the great swamps on the east and west, 
and over intervening hills and valleys the blue ocean stretching 
toward the Spanish Main of old. 

POPULATION AND TOWNS. 

The inhabitants of the island are Spanish and colored, and exhibit 
in their intercourse with strangers a dignified and kindly spirit. 
For many years the Isle of Pines was a penal colony for Cuban 
revolutionists. The language is Spanish. 

There are 114 city properties on record, valued at $22,800. 

The island has two towns and one port. 

Nueva Gerona (New Gerona) .—This town, the capital and 
second town in size, lies on the left bank of the Sierra de las Casas 
River, 2 miles above its mouth on the north coast. It is advanta- 
geously situated on a picturesque plateau, between the Caballos 
and Casas mountains at the base of the latter, about 30 feet above 
the sea and the swamps at the mouth of the river. It is well drained 
and, exposed to the constant breezes from the sea, free from mala- 
rial influence. Its water comes from a magnesian spring, said to 
be very beneficial in cases of stomach trouble, and baths have been 
built into which water from the same spring is conducted. The 
town has an American hotel, an ice plant, and telephone connection 
with Santa Fe and a projected extension to Jucaro. 

Just outside of the town, on an open plateau, are the barracks, 
a large stone building with interior courts, capable of accommo- 
dating comfortably 200 American troops, and of affording shelter, 
if necessary, to double that number. 

There is a wharf at the town at which the steamer from Bata- 
bano lands once a week; also a church. Population, 1,000. In 
the taking of the American census of 1899 it was an important 
center of enumeration. It also is an American post-office. 



20 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

Santa Fe. — On both banks of the river of the same name, 15 
miles SSE. of Nueva Gerona, of which it is officially a suburb (bar- 
rio), and has an American post-office. There are some fine drives 
and walks in the vicinity. The country is somewhat flat in the 
neighborhood and more rolling inland. The port of the town, Jucaro, 
is about 7 miles distant. Santa Fe is a place of 1,050 inhabitants, 
two hotels, a church, thermal baths of about blood temperature, 
medicinal springs of magnesia and iron, favorably known and pat- 
ronized from Habana in the summer. A consulting surgeon, under 
Spanish jurisdiction, resided here for the benefit of invalids. 

In the United States census enumeration of the inhabitants in 
1899 this town was an important subdivision. 

Jucaro, the port of Santa Fe, on 'the river of that name, at a dis- 
tance of 7 miles, is connected by a fine road. A steamer touches 
here once a week. The means of communication with Santa Fe is 
by the volante or ox cart. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND HACIENDAS. 

In addition to these three important centers are twenty-six 
villages or haciendas scattered throughout the island, as follows: 

Acosta. — A fishing village on the peninsula of Port Frances, near 
the west shore of Siguanea Bay, in the extreme southwest. 

Almacijos. — A village at the headwaters of the western tribu- 
tary of the Santa Fe River west by south and a few miles above the 
town of that name. 

Asciento de Santa Fe. — A hamlet on a road southeast of the 
town and on the right bank of the river of that name. Thermal 
springs which line the bank of the stream are also found in this 
vicinity. 

Caleta Grande. — A hamlet on the Caribbean Sea or the south- 
west shore of the Puerto Frances Peninsula. It was a subdivision 
of the census enumeration district of 1899. 

Canada. — A village at the base of the sierra of that name on the 
main road to Rosario and Nueva Gerona in the west part of the 
island. 

Carapachivey. — An isolated fishing village about the center of 
the salt lagoon on the south, reached from the highland by the rocky 
ledges which rise above the soft surrounding surface. 

Carboneras. — A subdivision of the census enumeration district 
of 1899. 

Caudal. — A fishing village on the eastern part of the salt lagoon 
on the south, on the pathway from the highland to Punta Brava on 
the south coast. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 21 

Cuchilla Alta. — A subdivision of the census enumeration dis- 
trict of 1899. 

Jorobado. — A fishing village in the salt marsh near the inlet of 
the same name on the south coast. 

Jucaro. — See "Population and towns." 

Hospital. — A hamlet in the sierra foothills about the center of the 
island between the Santiago and Jagua rivers. 

Lacunagua. — A village at the forks of the Santa Fe and San 
Pedro road4n the south central part of the highlands. 

Las Nuevas. — A village in the extreme northwest, near the 
coast, on the road midway between Nueva Gerona and San Jose. 

Nueva Gerona. — See "Population and towns." 

Llevat. — A fishing village near Cape Frances on the peninsula of 
that name on the west shore of Siguanea Bay in the southwest. 

Palma Alta. — A fishing village on the pathway across the east- 
ern part of the Cienaga between Caudal and Punta Brava on the 
south coast. 

Rosario. — An important road center in the northwestern part 
near the right bank of the River del Callejon. 

San Jose. — On the west coast road near the head of a small stream 
entering the Estuary del Pino. It is surrounded by a fertile country. 

San Juan. — At the headwaters of a stream of the same name at 
the terminus of a road southeast from Santa Fe near the coast. 

San Pedro. — On the stream of that name. It is an important 
road center in the southwest part of the island leading to the landing 
at Casimbas on the east shore of Siguanea Bay. 

San Antonio. — On the right bank of the Rio de los Indios near 
its mouth on the north coast. 

San Francisco de las Piedras. — About the center of the island 
at the junction of four roads from Nueva Gerona (north), Santa Fe 
(east by south), Lacunagua (south), Canada (southwest), and Las 
Nuevas (northwest). 

Santa Fe. — See "Population and towns." 

Santa Rita de la Jagua. — On the borders of the Cienaga at the 
forks of the main Punta Brava road, across the salt lagoon to Santa 
Fe (northeast) and San Pedro (west). 

Santa Rosalia. — In the north central part, on the road between 
Santa Fe and Nueva Gerona, nearer the latter point. 

Santa Teresa. — In the northwest, on the road from Nueva Gerona 
to Las Nuevas, about a mile east of the latter. 

Seiba. — About the center of the island, at the base of the sierra 
of that name, near the junction of the San Francisco de las Piedras 
and Lacunagua roads to Santa Fe. 



22 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

Sierra de Caballos. — A hamlet in the hills of that name in the 
extreme northeast, and a subdivision in the census enumeration 
district of the island. 

Sierra de Casas. — A hamlet in the north at the junction of the 
San Francisco de las Piedras and Las Nuevas roads to San Gerona 
and a subdivision in the census enumeration district of 1899. 

CENSUS. 

The report of the census of Cuba, 1899, War Department, office 
Director Census of Cuba, gives the following results with respect to 
the Isle of Pines, a municipal district of the Province of Habana: 

Total Spanish enumeration December 31, 1887 2, 040 

Total United States enumeration, 1899 3, 199 

Total gain 12 years 1, 159 

By wards and by cities, 1899, Isle of Pines district : 

Calete Grande 315 

Santa Fe 1,050 

Remainder of district 1, 834 

Total 3, 199 

Rural population with area and density by municipal districts: 

Rural population . 3, 199 

Area in square miles (986 square miles, Div. I. A., 1902) 840 

Density per square mile (3.24, Div. I. A., 1902) 3. 8 

Sex, general nativity, and color, all classes : 

Male 1,782 

Female 1, 417 

Total 3, 199 

Native white: 

Male 1 , 309 

Female 1 , 171 

Total 2, 480 

Foreign white: 

• Male 185 

Female 13 

Total 198 

Percentage of population by sex, general nativity, and color: 
Sex — 

Male 55.7 

Female 44. 3 

Nativity and color — 

Native whites 77. 5 

Foreign whites 6.2 

Colored 16. 3 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 23 

Age and sex: 

Under 5 years — 

Male 195 

Female 158 

5 to 17 years — 

Male 547 

• Female 528 

18 to 20 years- 
Male 106 

Female 97 

21 to 44 years — 

Male 671 

Female 473 

45 years and over — 

Male 263 

Female 161 

Total i 3, 199 

Birthplace : 

Cuba 2, 990 

Spain 195 

Other countries 14 

Total 3, 199 

Citizenship : 

Cuban 2, 818 

Spanish 32 

In suspense 334 

Other citizenship 15 

Total 3, 199 

Males 21 years of age and over, according to citizenship, literacy, and education: 
Whites born in Cuba — 
Cuban citizenship — 

Can neither read nor write 316 

Can read but not write 2 

Can read and write 283 

With superior education 13 

Spanish citizenship, can read and write 2 

Citizenship in suspense, can read and write. 1 

Total. ..:, 617 

Whites born in Spain — 

Spanish citizenship — 

Can neither read nor write 1 

Can read and write 6 

With superior education 1 

Citizenship in suspense — 

Can neither read nor write 47 

Can read but not write 2 

Can read and write 103 

With superior education 4 

Total 164 



24 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 



Males 21 years of age and over, according to citizenship, etc. — Continued. 
Whites born in other countries — 

Foreign and unknown citizenship — 

Can neither read nor write 

Can read and write 



Total 

Colored — 

Can neither read nor write. . r 

Can read but can not write 

Can read and write 

Foreign and unknown citizenship, can neither read nor write. 

Total 



Conjugal condition: 

Single 

Married 

Living together as husband and wife by mutual consent . 

Widowed 

Unknown 



110 

2 

33 

5 

150 



2,184 

774 

56 

184 

1 



Total 3,199 



School attendance, literary and superior education: 

Under 10 years of age — 

Attended school 38 

Did not attend school 784 

Ten years of age and over — 

Attended school 37 

Can neither read nor write 1, 343 

Can read but can not write 42 

Can read and write 954 

Not stated 1 



Superior education — 

Yes 

No... 



22 

3,177 



Total 3,199 

OCCUPATIONS, CENSUS OF 1899. 





Total 
popula- 
tion. 


Agricul- 
ture, fish- 
eries, and 

mining. 


Trade 
and 
trans- 
porta- 
tion. 


Manufac- 
ture and 
mechan- 
ical in- 
dustries. 


Profes- 
sional 
service. 


Domestic 

and 
personal 
service. 


Without 
gainful 
occupa- 
tion. 


Total 


3,199 


403 


140 


84 


9 


647 


1,916 








1,782 
1,417 


403 


138 
2 


84 


7 
2 


614 
33 


536 




1,380 












2,480 


255 


78 


57 


6 


468 


1, 616 








1,309 
1, 171 


255 


77 
1 


57 


5 
1 


464 
4 


451 




1,165 










Foreign white 


198 


52 


49 


12 


3 


61 


21 




185 
13 


52 


48 
1 


12 


2 
1 


60 
1 


11 




10 












521 


96 


13 


15 


118 


279 








288 
233 


96 


13 


15 




90 

' 28 


74 




205 













THE ISLE OP PINES. 25 

Number and size of families : 

Total population 3, 199 

Total number of families 572 

Average size, 5.6 persons to a family; of 1 person, 34; 2, 53; 3, 84; 4, 82; 5, 77; 
6, 64; 7, 39; 8, 39; 9, 36; 10, 25; 11 to 15, 30; 16 to 20, 6; 21 and over, 3. 

Dwellings and families : 

Unoccupied buildings 48 

Occupied dwellings 546 

Number of families 572 

Persons to a family 5. 6 

Persons to a dwelling 5. 9 

Families to a dwelling 1 

Disposition of excreta: 

Occupied dwellings 546 

Cesspool 211 

Sewer • 4 

None 319 

Not stated 11 

Agriculture : 

Farm areas, in caballerias (33^ U. S. acres =1 caballeria). 

Number of farms 94 

Total area 7, 030. 96 

Area in cultivation, 1899 25. 69 

Area cultivated in 1895 14. 72 

Large timber 1, 233. 31 

Small timber 93. 06 

DEPENDENT ISLANDS. 

The eastern, northern, and western shores of the island are sur- 
rounded by a number of keys, through which the mainland may be 
approached by means of intricate passages only known to the local 
pilots. Although the waters off the Cienaga on the south are clear 
of these coral and sand formations, the Cienaga itself is an impassable 
barrier except by a single causeway to access from that direction. 

Piedras, Cayo de. — A key separating the Cienagas (Salt lagoons) 
on the east and west and the line of the causeway between the 
highland and Punta Brava. 

AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. 

Of the land lying north of the Cienaga, the swamp and low 
ground with mangroves is estimated at 25 per cent; the savannas 
covered with these mangroves and scrub palmetto at 25 per cent; 
land of doubtful agricultural value, 10 per cent; rich land, 10 per 
cent; mountains and steep hills, 5 per cent; pine lands unsuitable 
for agriculture, 25 per cent. 

Of the land denominated rich, a very small percentage is actually 
under cultivation, but the nature of the growth upon it shows the 



26 THE ISLE. OF PINES. 

value of the soil. Of the entire surface of the island, but 1 per 
cent is now under cultivation, viz: 117 caballerias, or 3,900 acres 
(1 caballeria = 33 J U. S. acres) in a total of 14,117 caballerias. 
t As an example of the wonderful variety of product, a finca or^ 
' farm of less than 33 acres actual cultivation produces coffee, sugar, 
' chocolate (cocoa), cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, boniatos (sweet 
potatoes), yuca (cassava) (furnishing laundry starch), malangoes 
(answering for potatoes), rice, beans, lettuce, tobacco, honey, fowls,/ 
pigs, and cattle; also a few pineapples for home use. 
/ The rich arable land of the island is not found in large tracts, but^\ 
/ in scattered patches among the hills — suitable for tobacco rather J 
1 than for sugar plantations. ^ 

The demand for consumption in the island is small, and the 
freight rates to the mainland high, hence the only agricultural 
product that finds a ready market, and commands cash, is tobacco. 
Of this staple the island exported in 1899 about 5,000 bales (of 
100 pounds each). In 1900 the product was less, as the workers 
who had come from Cuba, to escape the war, returned to their old 
homes, where the reputatation of the leaf, if not its actual superi- 
y ority, gives the laborer who cultivates on shares a larger return for" 
his work. Tobacco from this island sells in Habana at the highest 
market rates. The cultivation of sugar in 1900 was confined to a 
i single estate. 

VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 

In addition to tobacco, the staple of the island, the following 
r vegetable products are raised: Boniato, or sweet potato, which has) 
J a particularly fine flavor, and with reduced rates to Cuba, should | 
Vbecome a marketable product; cocoa (chocolate), raised only experi- / 
(mentally, but the fruit appears to be fine; cocoanuts yield abun- 
dantly, though few trees have been planted. This could easily 
become an article of export. v 

f Coffee has so far been raised only for experiment, but the quality) 
seems to be fair, and with cultivators who understand the work good J 
results might be obtained. Manga (answering as potato) is grown/ 
without irrigation and yields well, fine quality. Rice also grows 
well without irrigation. Sugar cane at present raised in the island 
is for home use only; the juice is extracted by a crude wooden mill 
and boiled down in a large open kettle, making a dark coarse sugar 
unfit for export. Yuca (used for starch) grows without irrigation 
and yields well. The Indian corn (maize) also flourishes. About 
112 estates on the island are mostly devoted to tobacco raising. Of 
some products two crops are grown. 

fThe climate tropical and the soil a mixture of rich loam and sanch 
present conditions suitable not only for the cultivation of all the \ 



THE ISLE OP PINES. 2T 

products of that zone, but in addition to tobacco, coffee, and sugar} 

cane is mentioned rubber. 
r The mainland of Mexico and Central America, almost in sight 
/produces some of the best rubber in the world. The conditions of 
^ ( soil and climate on the Isle of Pines being the same, it is claimed r 
[should make rubber production a profitable industry. The growth, 
/of gutta-percha, which is generally found in the same zone, would 
x \ also make a particularly valuable addition to the productive wealth 

of the island. For the production of gutta-percha Holland, Great 

Britain, and France have established, extensive plantations and y 

nurseries in their tropical possessions. * *"" 

MINERALS. 

The only mineral product of importance is the marble, which is 
found in the two mountains east and west of New Gerona on the 
north coast. It was worked extensively about thirty years ago, 
the ruins of a steam plant for sawing and polishing the slabs showing 
that much money was put into the enterprise. It is said that for 
reasons of its own the government looked with disfavor on the enter- 
prise and to discourage it levied a duty upon the sand used in sawing, 
which was hauled from the shore, a mile from the quarry. This 
imposition killed the enterprise. About twelve years ago, a few 
cargoes of marble blocks were gotten out and shipped to Habana to 
be sawed up and worked there. Since then nothing has been done. 
The marble is of good quality, ranging from a good white statuary,, 
through various shades of blue-veined stone to marble of a dark gray, 
also specimens with pinkish coloring. There are in the island no 
samples of very brilliant polish, but, judging from the crystallization 
of some of the blocks, good results should be obtainable with proper 
methods. The rock crystals gathered on the hill of that name are 
much prized by casual visitors. 

The quality of the marble is reported by experts to be suitable for < 
the finest statuary, the color being the purest white. Other varieties j 
of different hues are suitable for ornamentation and art, as they take 
on an excellent polish. The stone is free from cracks and will furnish 
slabs of any size, the deposits varying from 5 to 25 feet in thickness^ 
They are also situated to meet all requirements of convenient and 
economical transportation to points of shipment on the coast. 

The old workings have done little but step the surface of a cliff of 
weather-worn rock. The amount of material in sight is unlimited. 
The old works have a most advantageous location, where a short haul 
over a good road leads to an old pier. 

A good quality of brick clay is found in the island. At New Gerona 
are the ruins of an extensive brickyard whence bricks, flooring tiles, 

S. Doc. 311, 59-1 3 



28 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

and roofing tiles were formerly shipped to Habana. Silver and iron 
are also reported. 

A salt deposit 1,472 feet long lies near Salinas Point. From this to 
the third Salinas Point the land forms large clean salt pits, without 
trees, easy to work, and which increase in width for some distance. 

FORESTS. 

The flora of the island combines many of the varieties of Florida 
with the large hard-wood trees of Central America and Mexico, and 
singularly the pine, a characteristic of the temperate zone, which 
grows over the greater part of the island. 

In the forests of this promising little isle of the Antilles are found 
extensive groves of the Oreodoxa regio (royal palm) and twenty-six 
other varieties of the same numerous family — the mahogany, lignum- 
vitse, coco wood, from which reed instruments are made; cedrela 
odorata, used in the manufacture of cigar boxes and the lining of 
cabinet woods, also producing an aromatic oil distilled from its wood; 
and fustic or logwood, a dyestufT the product of cholophora, known as 
yellow or Cuba wood or old fustic. 

In the swamps on the southern side of the island, accessible only by 
sea, are found all the mahogany and most of the other valuable woods 
on the island. 

Reclus in his "Universal Geography," Volume XVII, says: "All 
the large trees of the Mexican coast, so remarkable for their majestic 
growth, for the beauty of their foliage, the splendor and fragrance of 
their flowers, reappear on the Cuba seaboard. Over thirty species of 
palms are here met in association with trees such as the pine, which 
would seem so characteristic of the temperate zone and which gives 
its name to the "Pinos" Island, where it is found intermingled with 
palms and mahogany." 

The indigenous trees of the Tropics are found side by side with the 
wild pine from which the island takes its name. 

There are at present two small steam saw mills in the island, one in 
actual running order. There is a large area of pine forests, but the 
logs large enough for sawing are found only in small stretches west of 
the center of the island. The tall pines furnish for exportation rail- 
way ties, telegraph poles, poles for the roofs of native Cuban huts and 
for hanging tobacco during the curing process. 

There are no statistics available from which the amount and the 
quality of the hard woods on the southern part of the island can be 
estimated. 

There appears to have been no very regular trade. While much 
fine wood exists it is not of sufficient size and in sufficient quantity to 
warrant the expense of getting it to the water, over the difficult rocky 



THE ISLE OP PINES. " 29 

ground in which it grows. The most accessible localities have already 
been culled, and it is said that to take out the best timber portable 
railways will have to be used. After the date of the approval of the 
estimate for forests, 1900-01, the military governor of Cuba created 
the office of "inspector of forests for the Isle of Pines." 

One of the principal sources of wealth is lumber, eleven forest 
grants having been made to the year 1900. 

FRUITS. 

The cultivated and wild fruits are celebrated for their quality and 
[ grow abundantly, as follows: 

v Agtjacate (alligator pear), one of the most popular fruits in the 
Antilles, pear-shaped, of green or purple, and often weighs as high as 
( 2 pounds. On account of the pulp being firm and marrow-like, it is 
also known as vegetable marrow or midshipman's butter. A very 
good oil for soap comes from its seed. The tree is an evergreen, about 
25 or 30 feet high. 

Banana (platano). — Many varieties of this well-known fruit exist 
and take the place of bread in all country families, being eaten raw or 
cooked in many different ways. 

Caimito. — Some are purple on the outside and others dark green. 
Inside it has a milky fibrous meat, quite sweet and starchy, and a 
number of round black seeds. It grows on a tree. 

Chtrimoya (cherimoyer, or custard apple). — A heart-shaped fruit, 
quite sweet, with a slightly acid taste and very refreshing. It has a 
scaly exterior and contains numerous seeds buried in a pulp. It is 
sometimes known as bullock's heart, on account of its size and shape. 
It grows on trees about 25 or 30 feet high. • 

Cocoanut (cocoa). — Fruits in bunches of from 12 to 20 on a tree 
from 60 to 90 feet high. The nut when fresh contains nearly 1 quart 
of milk, very much esteemed by the natives as a refreshment. The 
thick rind or husk surrounding the nut is used in making cordage, 
matting, brushes, bags, etc. A valuable oil is obtained .from the nut 
which is well known to commerce. 

Figs (higos) of all kinds grow luxuriantly. 

Gbanadilla. — A fruit grown on a vine which also bears the passion 
flower. It is generally as large as a child's head. It is very much 
liked by the natives, who use it in making refreshments and desserts. 
The meat is glutinous and contains many small seeds. 

Gtjanabana. — A large fruit about the size of a muskmelon, with 
many seeds and fibrous meat, having a delicate flavor. Used for mak- 
ing - refreshments, ices, and preserves. Also eaten in its natural 
state. 



) 



30 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

/ Guava. — A black globose pulpy fruit with an agreeable acid flavor, 
/used in making jelly, marmelade, etc. It is largely cultivated in 
tropical countries, there being two varieties, the red or apple-shaped 
and the white or pear-shaped. 

Lima. — Something like a lime, and has the flavor of the grape. 
/ Lime (limon) or citrus, resembling a lemon, but smaller; the 
[ product of the citrus limelta tree. The juice is used in cooling bever- 
ages in the Tropics, and is especially in demand in summer in higher 
latitudes. It is also boiled and used in fevers. 

Mammee-Sapota. — A tree that yields a fruit the juice of which 
resembles marmelade. It is known locally as the "mamey Colorado." 

Mamoncillo grows in clusters; it is a species of plum, tart, and has 
one fibrous pit. 

Mango. — A fruit shaped somewhat like a pear, but attached to the 
tree by the larger end. The meat is fibrous and clings to the seed the 
same as happens with a clingstone peach. It is generally eaten in its. 
natural state, but when green is sometimes boiled as a vegetable. Its 
flavor, when ripe, is a combination of apricot and pineapple. There 
are several varieties of this fruit. The tree is 30 or 35 feet high. 

Maranon. — Similar to a persimmon, heart-shaped, and has a heart- 
shaped seed on the outside, which is roasted and eaten as a chestnut. 

Oranges. — This fruit of commerce in fine varieties grows abun- 
dantly, both cultivated and wild. 

Papaya (paw-paw). — About 10 inches long, commonly of an oblong 
form, ribbed, and having a thick fleshy rind. It is eaten raw, or when 
green is boiled as a vegetable and is also pickled. The tree is about 
20 feet high and has large leaves. Meat boiled with a small portion of 
the leaf is made tender, or this can be done by simply hanging the 

fieat among the leaves. ' The seeds are used as a vermifuge. 
Pineapple (pina). — Several varieties of this fruit grow in the island , 
nd with proper cultivation may be a valuable product. 
Sapodillo (plum). — Small brown fruit with a black seed like a 
watermelon and juice which disappears with incipient decay, when 
the fruit becomes very sugary. 

industries. 

The mechanical industries are tobacco manufacturing, quarrying, 
weaving for home consumption, cutting and sawing lumber and work- 
ing into poles and railroad ties, and charcoal burning; also forest 
products, turpentine, pitch, and tar. Recent returns give 54 indus- 
trial and commercial establishments. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 31 

Other industries are fishing, the shallow adjacent waters abounding 
in fine marketable fish, lobsters, and turtles. 

The raising of horses, which are small but hardy and good road- 
sters, and cattle, much depleted as to numbers at the outbreak of the 
war, is an important occupation, the valleys and hillsides being cov- 
ered with nutritious grasses. Pigs are also raised in large numbers, 
the wild fruits and seeds furnishing abundant food. At the close of 
1899 there were 4,164 horned cattle, 1,231 horses, 144 mules, and 
3,396 hogs and goats. 

Among the various American enterprises may be mentioned a new 
hotel; an ice plant; a dentist's office; a grocery establishment; black- 
smith shop ; turpentine plant ; and orange-growing and truck-garden- 
ing for United States markets. Prospectors interested in other occu- 
pations are also looking over the ground. 

FAUNA. 

There are no wild animals which might be classed as game on the 
land. The iguana furnishes some fine specimens. The species of 
reptiles are few, and none of them venomous. 

Bird life is chiefly represented by the parrot. There are 200 varie- 
ties of all species. The surrounding waters teem with fish, the red 
snapper being one of the best; 700 varieties known to science. 

The manati, or sea cow, abounds in the waters along the coast. 

COMMERCE. 

The exports are tobacco, charcoal, lumber, poles, railway ties, tor- 
toise shells, fruits, and parrots, which exist in large numbers. 

The nearest port of entry under the customs system of Cuba is 
Batabano. That town, on the south coast of Habana province, has 
a safe port, well sheltered. 

The statistics of exports and imports of the Isle of Pines are not 
given separately, but are included in the general tables of the entry 
district. 

COINAGE, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. 

The value of foreign coins, as expressed in the money of account of 
the United States, is based on the pure metal of such coin of standard 
value. The standard of the Isle of Pines, taken from the Island of 
Cuba, is gold and silver, and the monetary unit the peso. 

Coins : 

Doubloon dollars, U. S. . 5. 017 

Peso (silver) do 0. 600 

Peso (gold) do 0. 926 



32 THE ISLE OF PIITES. 

Weights: 

Arroba. .. . pounds, U. S.. 25.3664 

Libra do 1.0161 

Quintal - do 101.6100 

Measures: 

Dry— 

Fanaga bushels, U.S.. 1 . 599 

Liquid — 

Arroba gallons, U.S.. 4. 263 

Linear — 

Cuerda, 8J varas feet, U. S. . 23| 

Legua stat. miles, U. S. . 2. 6724- 

Vara inches, U. S. . 33.384 

Square — 

Caballeria cordels. . 576 

Caballeria acres, U. S. . 33^ 

Cordel. sq. yards, U.S.. 495. 40 

Legua acres. . 4. 633 

Cubic — 

Cuerda (cord) feet, U. S. . 128 

CIVIL GOVEKNMENT. 

The island was discovered by Columbus in 1494, who named it 
"La Evangelista." In the administration of Cuba it became a 
dependency of Habana, of which province it is a municipality 
(district) . 

It constitutes an ayuntamiento or municipal district of the judicial 
district of Bejucal, province of Habana, instituted in 1880, with its 
seat at Nueva Gerona. It was reorganized in July, 1899, under 
United States military control. 

The ayuntamiento owns two city properties, a bathing establish- 
ment, 8^ caballerias (283 acres) of land formerly held by the govern- 
ment, and the cemetery of Nueva Gerona, the value of which is esti- 
mated at $8,353. 

In June, 1900, there were eight schools with 155 scholars on the 

? ( POLITICAL STATUS. 

The definition of the status of the Isle of Pines in adjustment of 
the relations between the United States and Cuba is contained in 
that portion of the act making appropriation for the support of the 
Army for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1902, approved March 2 r 
1901 (U. S. Stats. L., 56th Cong., 1899-1901, vol. 31, pp. 897-8), 
which provided that " in the fulfillment of the declaration contained 
in the joint resolution of Congress April 20, 1898, for the recognition 
of the independence of the people of Cuba, leaving the government 
and control of the island to its people," no action shall be taken 
until ' ' a government shall have been established in said island under 
a constitution which either as a part thereof or in an ordinance 



THE ISLE OP PINES. 33 

appended thereto shall define the future relations of the United States 
with Cuba substantially" under the following heads: I. Conditions 
of Treaties; II. Public debt; III. Intervention by the United States ; 
IV. Acts of United States during military occupancy ratified ; V. Sani- 
tary measures; VI. Isle of Pines to be omitted from the proposed 
constitutional boundaries of Cuba, the title thereto being left to 1 
future adjustment by treaty; VII. Coaling stations; VIII. By wayj 
of further assurance the foregoing to be made part of a treaty. 

HISTORICAL EVENTS. 

Among the historical events off the island was the attack by a 
Spanish fleet of the expedition under the celebrated British Admiral 
Drake in the sixteenth century returning from Costa Rica. The 
Englishman, after a desperate encounter against great odds, man- 
aged to escape with the loss of one vessel. 

This island in the days of the buccaneers was the headquarters of 
the pirates in their forays upon the islands of the Antilles and the 
Spanish Main. 

PUBLIC LAND, TAXES, AND DUES. 

A report by the collector of customs at Batabano to the chief at 
Habana, February 22, 1899, gives the following particulars on public 
lands, former taxes, and dues : 

The only land belonging to the state is embraced in 63 lots, each 
about 50 acres, scattered within 3 miles of Nueva Gerona. These 
lots appear to have been left after the land had been picked over, 
as they are generally in the worst localities and practically worth- 
less, containing nothing but mangrove scrub, dwarf palmettos, and 
thin pine grass. A few of the better lots are in use as small farms, 
the occupants paying, it is alleged, a normal rent to the hacienda at 
Habana (no records on this point exist in the island) . 

No record of dues paid to the Crown for the privilege of exporting 
timber can be found. It is understood that contributions were 
arbitrarily levied from time to time by the military governor of the 
island. These "contributions" or "gratifications" were paid, it^is 
said, to secure immunity from official obstruction in the going and 
coming of vessels from the inaccessible points at which the lumber 
was gathered. It is presumable that some of these contributions 
were used for the benefit of the island, but no record appears of the 
amount or disposition. 

The governor of the island immediately collected dues for the 
slaughtering of cattle and the selling of meats, and also from stores 
and shops of all kinds. To meet the difficulty of beef supply at a 
wood-choppers' camp the governor devised a system of dues based 
upon the amount of charcoal and cord wood exported, which dues 
were levied in lieu of those legally authorized. 



34 THE ISLE OF PINES. 

In accessible camps or "cuttings" the amount of export was 
actually ascertained; in other "cuttings" more inaccessible a lump 
sum per month was exacted, based on the number of men employed. 

The quantity of mangrove and other scrubby wood available for 
charcoal and cord wood is practically unlimited, all the coast of the 
island and the keys to the north being covered with this growth, and 
the state does not appear to have collected any dues for the privilege 
of cutting. The dues seem to have been simply in the nature of 
town taxes, levied on wood-choppers' camps in order that they 
should not, by leaving the established towns, escape the burden of 
taxation. 



APPENDIX. 



PHYSIOGRAPHY OF THE ISLE OF PINES. 

[By C. Willard Hayes, U. S. Geological Survey.] 

The essential elements in the physiography of this island are (1) a low swampy coastal 
plain, (2) a broad gently undulating interior plain, and (3) ridges and hills rising abruptly 
from the central plain. 

(1) At a few points along the north side of the island the ridges reach the coast, and the 
waves have produced sea cliffs. Elsewhere about its eastern, northern, and western sides 
(as well as in a belt crossing the island south of its center and forming the great cienaga) 
the island is bordered by a narrow strip of lowland, generally swampy, and covered with a 
dense growth of mangroves. The shore is often formed by a low sandy beach, back of 
which is the mangrove swamp. This coastal fringe corresponds in all particulars with the 
many low sandy keys which border the southern coast of Cuba from Cape Cruz westward. 
It varies in width from a mere fringe only a few yards in width to a strip several miles 
broad. Wherever it is present it shows that the island is increasing in area. 

The southern coast of the island is entirely different from that above described. Facing 
upon the deep Caribbean Sea, where the waves have full unobstructed sweep, conditions 
are favorable for coral growth, and this portion of the coast is fringed with coral reefs. 

The island has in comparatively recent geologic time stood slightly lower than now. The 
land now forming the coastal plain was then submerged, and the waves cut a terrace about 
50 feet above the present sea level. Nueva Gerona is built on such a terrace, and at various 
places back of that town the old sea cliff may be observed. It is prominent about the 
northern ends of both the Sierras de la Casas and los Caballos. It is also seen on the road 
from Santa Fe to Jucaro, and a further examination would doubtless show its presence at 
many other points along the northern and eastern sides of the island. It seems, however, 
to be entirely absent from the southwestern portion. 

(2) The interior plain occupies probably 75 per cent of the entire surface of the island. 
It varies in altitude between 75 and 110 feet, with a few portions possibly rising to 150 feet 
above sea level. The surface consists of a succession of gentle swells and depressions, 
barely enough to relieve the monotony of a dead level. The streams, which are not numer- 
ous, flow in broad depressions with gentle slopes. In these depressions the channels are 
cut from 5 to 15 feet in depth, with steep banks, and proportionate to the volume of the 
streams. No well-developed flood plains are encountered and the streams appear to fill 
these channels in time of flood. All the streams, except near the coast, show rock in places 
in their channels. 

This plain is covered for the most part with fine quartz gravel. The smaller pebbles, 
from ^ to | inch in diameter, are well rounded and often highly polished. The larger pebbles 
are more angular with increasing size, and those over 2 inches in diameter have their angles 
scarcely at all rounded. This gravel is everywhere deep red or black, and the iron and 
manganese which produce the color have not only stained the surface of the pebbles but 
have penetrated entirely through, often giving them a metallic luster. In addition to color - 

35 



36 THE ISLE OP PINES. 

ing the pebbles, the iron has in many places cemented them into large masses of conglomerate. 

So far as observed this interior plain is everywhere underlain by highly crystalline mica 
schists. The foliation of the schist strikes nearly north and south, and has a vertical or 
steep easterly dip. Its surface is always deeply weathered except where streams have cut 
down and exposed the fresh rock in their channels. The weathered rock passes insensibly 
upward into the subsoil and that into the surface gravels showing that both are residual — 
that is, derived directly from the underlying rocks. The schist contains numerous quartz 
veins and stringers, and it is from these that the gravel is derived. The rounding of the 
quartz fragments is probably due not to the rolling action of waves or stream currents but 
to the beating of rain. By this means only the smaller fragments, which can be easily 
moved by the rain, are rounded, while the larger fragments retain their original angular 
forms. 

The soil covering this interior plain varies from barren red gravel to dark-gray sandy 
loam. The former covers the swells, while the latter is foimd in the intervening depressions. 
Sometimes there is a layer of gravel beneath a few inches of sandy loam at the surface, a 
condition which exercises an important influence on the agricultural value of the land. 

Practically the entire surface of the interior plain is occupied by forests and savannahs or 
prairies. The character of the timber depends on variations in soil. Where the ferruginous 
gravel is abundant only pines are found. The trees are small, rarely attaining a greater 
size than 14 or 16 inches in diameter and 16 to 18 feet to the main branches. The best 
timber is found in the west central portion of the island. In the shallow depressions, where 
the surface soil is a sandy loam, the pines are largely replaced by palmettos. The character 
of the forests is shown by the accompanying photographs. They are generally open and 
quite free from undergrowth of any kind except grass. There is no sharp line between 
forest and savannah, and the latter often contain scattered pine trees or groups of palmettos. 

The first suggestion regarding the origin of this plain is that it is due to marine erosion, 
but a careful examination fails to reveal any of the characteristic marks of wave action. 
As stated above, the superficial gravel does not owe its rounded form to the action of waves, 
and no traces of marine deposits are found on the plain. It has undoubtedly been produced 
by the long-continued action of subaerial forces, which are everywhere tending to degrade 
the land surface to sea level. Unlike Cuba, the Isle of Pines has maintained a stable position 
with reference to sea level for a very long time, long enough for the atmospheric agencies 
to reduce highlands of hard schist nearly to base level. It has not recently been elevated 
to any considerable altitude, for its streams are flowing in rock channels — not excavated 
and alluvial filled channels, as would otherwise be the case. 

(3) Approaching the Isle of Pines from the northward the first impression one gains is that 
its surface is prevailingly mountainous. This is due to the presence of numerous ridges 
and groups of hills, which rise abruptly from the central plain. When examined near at 
hand they are found to occupy a relatively small proportion of the island's surface, being 
entirely surrounded and isolated by the central plain. They are true monadnocks — that 
is, residual masses of resistant rock left, in high relief by the wearing down of the less resistant 
surrounding rocks. 

The Sierras de las Casas, los Caballos', and Pequena are three parallel ridges in the northern 
part of the island, about 2§ or 3 miles apart, and trending nearly due north and south. 
Nueva Gerona hes about midway between the two first named. The highest points in 
these ridges are between 1,000 and 1,200 feet. They are composed of marble in massive 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 37 

beds dipping steeply toward the east. This marble formation is estimated to be at least 
2,000 feet in thickness, and the three parallel ridges are probably formed by faulted blocks 
and contain the same beds. The form of these ridges is determined by the structure. They 
have smooth though steep slopes on the eastern sides, the slopes generally corresponding 
with the dip of the marble beds, and extremely ragged, often precipitous, slopes on the 
western sides where the edges of the beds outcrop. These ridges are almost entirely devoid 
of soil and sustain only a scanty vegetation, some trees and bushes maintaining a precarious 
foothold in the crevices of the rocks. 

The Cerro de la Daguilla is an elongated cone about 10 miles south of Santa Fe. It is 
composed of dark-green horneblende schist, evidently an altered igneous rock. It differs 
completely from the marble monadnocks in the northern part of the island. Its slopes are 
generally smooth, though very steep, and covered with sufficient soil to sustain a dense 
growth of bushes and small trees or a thick covering of grass. The Sierras de la Canada, de 
San Pedro, del Norte, and de la Seiba, judging from their forms, are probably composed of 
rocks similar to those in La Daguilla. 

The Cerros de la Siguanea and de las Maneaderos are groups of low hills in the southwest- 
ern portion of the island near Siguanea Bay. They are composed of schist similar to that 
underlying the surrounding central plain, except that it is more siliceous, and hence bet- 
ter able to resist atmospheric degradation. 

Considering the island in its broader relations, it is evident that it has little in common K 
with Cuba. Its geologic structures appear to have no close connection with those of the \ 
larger island, in fact, the strike of its structural axes is nearly at right angles with those of ( 
Pinar del Rio, the nearest part of Cuba. No trace of Mesozoic or Tertiary formations, 
which make up so large a part of Cuba, was observed on the Isle of Pines, though such for- 
mations may possibly occur in the southern portion south of the great cienaga. Further, 
the island appears to have had an extremely simple geologic history, and to have suffered 
few of the geologic vicissitudes of its northern neighbor. 

Considered from the economic view point the Isle of Pines is scarcely to be compared 
' with Cuba. Its soil is not adopted for sugar raising, though certain parts are probably as / 
well adapted to tobacco culture as the famous Vuelta Abajo district. Much of the island j 
would doubtless produce fruits, as well as cacao, which latter is one of the most profitable \ 
crops grown in the Tropics. The industry for which the island appears preeminently fitted | 
is grazing, and it will doubtless in time become an important source of supply for cattle and j 
sheep for the West Indian markets. . 

V It is also destined to become an important health resort, and all conditions of climate, / 
/vegetation, and scenery combine to render it attractive both to invalids and others who j 
[wish to escape the severe northern winters. * 

V The mineral resources so far as at present known are confined to marble, but of this there 
is an unlimited amount of different grades, suitable for a great variety of purposes. It is 
possible that iron and manganese may both be discovered on the island in commercial 
quantities. 

Unfortunately the. island is without deep harbors, which largely neutralizes its value from 
a militarv standpoint. ^ 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Acosta, village 20 

Administration 32 

Age, population 23 

Agriculture, population 25 

Agricultural resources 25 

Aguacate, fruit , 29 

Agustin Fol Bay 12 

Aji, Cerros del. .'. 8, 12 

Almacijos, village 20 

American enterprises 31 

Anima.ls: 

Cattle 26 

Fowls 26 

Horses 26 

Pigs 26 

Area 5, 6, 22 

Asiento de Santa Fe 7, 20 

Ayuntamiento under Bejucal 32 

Banana, fruit 29 

Barcos, Point de los 5, 7, 10, 11 

Barcos Bay 16 

Barlovento 11 

Batabano, distances to 5, 7, 10 

Batabano, communications 17 

Bays 12, 15 

Bejucal, in judicial district of 32 

Bernardino, stream 7 

Bibi jagua, Lake 13 

Bibijagua, Morillo of 13 

Bibijagua, Sierra 10, 12, 13 

Birds 31 

Birthplace, population 23 

Boundaries 5 

Brava Point (Punta) 11, 25 

Buccaneers 33 

Buena Vista Point 11 

Caballos, Sierra de la 6, 9, 12, 13, 19, 22 

Cable 18 

Caiman 15 

Caimito, fruit 29 

Caleta Grande, village 20, 22 

Caletones Point 12 

Callejon, Rio del , 7 

Canada, Sierra del 6,8,9,12,15 

Canada, village 20 

Canao Point 11 

Capitan Estuary 11 

Carapachivey Bay 12 

Carapachivey Cove 16 

Carapachivey Harbor 16 

Carapachivey, village 20 

Carboneros 20 

Caribbean Sea 5,7 

Carraguao, Punta de 5 

Casas del Norte, Sierra 12, 13 

Casas del Sur, Sierra 12, 13 



Casas Rio, Sierra de 7, 10, 11, 13, 10. 

Casas, Sierra de la 6,13, 

Cattle raising 9, 

Caudal, village 

Caudal Wharf 

Cayamas River 

Cayuelo, key 

Cedar wood 

Cedrella odorata wood 

Census: 

Report of 1899 22,23,24. 

Total Spanish enumeration 

Total United States enumeration 

By wards 

Rural population 

Sex, general 

Nativity and color 



Age and sex. 



Birthplace 

Citizenship 

Males 21 years of age and over 23 

Conjugal conditions 

School attendance 

Occupations, of 

Number of families 

Dwellings and families 

Disposition of excreta 

Agriculture 

Spanish 5. 

United States 5 

Charcoal burning 

Chirimoya (cherimoyer) 

Cholera 

Cienaga, Boca de la 

Cienaga Bay '. 

Cienaga (swamp) 6, 7, 8, 9, 18 

Cienfuegos 

Citerna, stream 8 

City properties 19 

Civil government 

Clay (brick) 

Climate 14 

Coco wood 

Cocoanut 

Cocodrilo Point and Bay 10,11 

Coffee 

Coins, value in United States standard 

Columbus discovered the island 

Color, population ' 

Columpo Lake 

Columpo, Sierra 10 

Commerce: 

Exports, statistics of 

Imports, statistics of 

Port of entry 

Commercial establishments 

39 



40 



INDEX. 



Communications (railroad and steamer), 
United States railroad terminals from At- 
lantic and Gulf ports 17 

Habana via Batabano to Santa Fe and 

Nueva Gerona 17 

Louisville and Nashville Railroad, and 
steamers from Pensacola and New Or- 
leans 17, 18 

Pennsylvania Railroad, southern connec- 
tions, via Tampa or Miami to Habana. . 17 

Conjugal, population 24 

Coral - - - - 15 

Crystals 27 

Cristales, Mount 6 

Crocodiles 15 

Crops 26 

Cuchilla Alta, village 21 

Cultivation, area of 25 

Cultivation, percentage of arable soil 25 

Curazao Point 11 

Daguilla Sierra 6, 9, 12, 13 

Density of population 22 

Dependent islands 25 

Derrotero de las Antillas, quoted 6, 9, 15 

Diablo Bay 12 

Distances, table of: 

From Nueva Gerona to points on the 

mainland 18 

From Nueva Gerona to Habana via Bata- 
bano (a selected list of 35 points on the 

mainland) 18 

From Nueva Gerona to points on main- 
land of the United States 18 

Dues 33 

Dwellings, population ■. 25 

Earthquakes 15 

Education, population 24 

Enterprises, American 31 

Entry, port of 31 

Estates 26 

Exports, not separated 31 

Farm areas 25 

Farm (flnca) possibilities 26 

Farms, productive capacity 26 

Families, population 25 

Fauna 31 

Figs 29 

Fish 31 

Fishing 12, 31 

Fish, red snapper and other food varieties. 31 

Lobsters 31 

Turtles 31 

Flamencos (los) 10 

Forests: 

Cedrela odorata 28 

Coco 28 

Fustic (logwood) 28 

. Logwood (fustic) 28 

Mahogany 28 

Pine 28 

Palm, royal 28 

Forest exports 28 

Forest grants 29 

Forests, inspector of 29 

Forest products 28, 30 

Frances Point or Cape 6, 12, 15 

Frances, Puerto 11, 16 

Freight rates 26 



French Cape (Frances) 9, 11, 12 

Fruits: 

Aguacate (alligator pear) 29 

Banana 29 

Caimito 29 

Chirimoya (Cherimoya) 29 

Cocoanut 29 

Figs 29 

Granadilla 29 

Guanabana 29 

Guava 30 

Lima 30 

Lime 30 

Mammee-Sapota 30 

Mamoncillo 30 

Mango 30 

Maranon 30 

Oranges 30 

Papaya (paw-paw) 30 

Pineapple 30 

Sapodilla (plum) 30 

Fuera Point 7, 10 

Fustic (logwood) 28 

Goats 31 

Government, civil 32 

Granadilla, fruit 29 

Grande Bay 12 

Grande, stream 8 

Grande Estuary 8, 10 

Grasses 31 

Grazing, statistics of 31 

Guairajes, wood 13 

Guanabana, fruit 29 

Guanal * 12 

Guanal Cape 11 

Guanal Point 11 

Guava, fruit 30 

Guayabo River 7,8 

Habana, distance 5 

Habana, communications 17 

Harbors ." 15 

Heat 14 

Historical events 33 

Hondes, Los 13 

Honey 26 

Horses 31 

Hospital 21 

Hurricanes -. 14, 15 

Hydrography 9 

Iguana 31 

Imports, not separated 31 

Indian Point 15 

Indian Key 15 

Indios, Rio de los 8, 11, 12 

Industries: 

Tobacco, manufactures of 30 

Quarrying 30 

Weaving 30 

Lumber, cutting and sawing, poles and 

ties 30 

Charcoal burning 30 

Turpentine 30 

Pitch 30 

Tar 30 

Fishing 31 

Pasturing 31 

Pasturing statistics 31 

Industrial establishments 30 



INDEX. 



41 



Page. 

Inflerno Bay 12 

Inspector of forests 29 

Iron 28 

Itabo, stream 8 

Jagua, Rio de la 8 

Jamaica, distance 5 

Jardines, cays and islets 7,9,17 

Jardinillos, cays and islets . : 7,9,17 

Jorobado, village 21 

Jucaro, port 8, 16, 20 

Lacunagua, Sierra 12, 21 

La Evangelista 32 

Lagetta lintearia, wood 13 

Lakes 12,13 

Lands 10 

Lands, arable 26 

Language 5,19 

Las Nuevas 7, 21 

Lignum-vitse, wood 28 

Lima, fruit 30 

Lime, fruit 30 

Literacy, population 23 

Llevat village 21 

Llimtete Bay •. 11 

Location 5 

Logwood (fustic) 28 

Louisville and Nashville Railroad and connec- 
tions 17 

Lugo Bay 12 

Lugo Point 12 

Lumber, manufactures of 30 

Mahogany, wood 28 

Majagua Point 8, 11 

Mai Pais, Sierra 12 

Mai Pais, stream 8 

Mammee-Sapota, fruit 31 

Mamoncillo, fruit 30 

Manati (sea cow) 31 

Manga 26 

Mangles, Islas de 7 

Mangles, wood 10 

Manigua, Sierra 12 

Mangrove swamps 7 

Mangrove trees 10 

Maps: 

Isle of Pines, surrounding waters and 

mainland faces 5 

Puerto Frances and Siguanea Bay. . .faces 15 
Railroad and steamer routes from United 
States, railway tide-water terminal 

points and connections for faces 17 

The Isle of Pines, towns, villages, physical 

features, and roads faces 19 

iCaracayero Point 11 

Maranon, fruit 30 

Marble 13, 27 

Measures, equivalents of, in United States 
standards: 

Dry 32 

Liquid 32 

Linear 32 

Square... 32 

Cubic 32 

Medio, Rio del 8 

Miami, distance 5, 17 

Military department 5 



Minerals: 

Clay (brick) 27 

Iron 28 

Marble 27 

Salt 28 

Silver 28 

Mineral springs 13 

Chemical analysis of waters 14 

Moisture ' 14 

Monte, del 8 

Mountains (sierras) : 

Aji 7 12 

Bibijagua 12 

Caballos 12 

Canada 12 

Casas del Norte 12 

Casas del Sur 12 

Columpo 12 

Daguilla 12 

Lacuanagua 12 

Mai Pais 12 

Manigua, La 12 

Monte, del 12 _ 

Pequeha 12 

San Jose 12 

San Pedro 12 

Seiba 12 

Mountains (Sierras) ._ 6, 9, 12 

Muertos creek 13 

Mules 31 

Municipal district 32 

Nativity, population 22 

New Gerona {see. Nueva Gerona) 19 

New Orleans, communications 17 

New Orleans, distance 5 

Nicaragua Canal, distance 5 

Northers (la virazon) 14 

Nueva Gerona (capital) 5,7,9, 13, 15, 16, 17, 19 

Nuevas Los, village 15 

Nuevas, Rio de las 8, 13 

Occupations, population 24 

Oil, distilled 28 

Oranges 30 

Palacios River 10 

Palm, royal .... 28 

Palma Alta 21 

Panama Canal, distance 5 

Passenger rates 17 

Pasture lands 13 

Papaya (paw-paw) , fruit 30 

Pedernales Point 11, 12, 16 

Penal colony 19 

Peninsula and Occidental Steamship Com- 
pany 17 

Pennsylvania Railroad and connections to 

Isle of Pines , 17 

Pensacola, communications 17 

Penascola, distance 5 

Pequeha, Sierra 12, 13 

Physical features 6, 9 

Physiography 35 

Piedra, Punta de, and Cape 7, 10 

Piedra del Indio 10 

Piedras, Cayo de 8, 9, 25 

Pigs 31 

Pinar del Rio, distance 5 

Pineapple, fruit 30 



42 



INDEX. 



Pines, Isle of, geography of 

Pines, Isle of 1,5,9,15,19,22,27,28. 

Pines, Isle of, communications 

Pines, Isle of, rates 

Pine trees 

Pino, Estero del 11 , 

Pitch 

Plant System :. 

Playa Larga 

Political status 

Population 5, 

Population, rural 

Port of entry 

Post-offices: 

Nueva Gerona 

Santa Fe 

Potrero Point 

Prietos, wood 

Products of agriculture: 

Bananas 

Beans 

Boniatos (sweet potatoes) 

Chocolate 

Cocoa-nuts 

Coffee 

Indian corn (maize) 

Lettuce 

?oes ' 



Plantain 

Rice 

Sugar 

Tobacco 

Yucca (cassava) 

Properties, city 

Public lands 

Purgatorio Bay 

Quarrying 

Quitrin 

Race 

Railroad and steamer communications. 

Rainfall 

Rains - 

Rancheria Point 

Rancheria, La, a tongue of land 

Rancheria of the East 

Rancho Viejo 

Rates, railroad: 

From New York 

From Philadelphia 

From Washington 

Reina Amalia 

Reptiles 

Rhode Island, comparison 

Rivers 

Rivers, navigable: 

Casas 

Nuevas 

Santa Fe 



Roads: 

Nueva Gerona to Santa Fe 

Punta Brava 

Siguanea Bay 

Santa Fe to Sierra de los Crystales . 

Robles, wood 

Rosario, village 

Rubber 



9 
31,32 

17 
17 
10 

15,16 
30 
17 
11 
32 

19,22 
22 
31 

19 

20 

8 

13 

26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
32 
33 
12 
30 
6 
5 
17 
14 
14 
12 
11,12 
11 
10 

17 
17 
17 

5 
31 

6 



Page. 

Salinas Point 10 

Salt deposits 10,28 

San Antonio 18,21 

San Francisco de las Piedras 21 

San Juan 8, 21 

San Jose, village 15, 21 

San Jose, Sierra 7, 9, 12, 15 

San Pedro 21 

San Pedro del Monte, Sierra 12 

San Pedro, stream 8 

Santa Fe 7,20,22 

Santa Fe, communications 17 

Santa Fe, Rio 8, 10, 13, 16 

Santa Rita de la Jagua 21 

Santa Rosalia 7,21 

Santa Teresa 7,15,21 

Santiago, stream 8 

Sapodillo, fruit 30 

Sawmills 28 

Schools 32 

Seasons 13, 14 

Seborucos, causeway 10 

Seboruco Alto Point 11 

Seiba, Sierra de la 8, 12 

Sex, population 22, 23 

Shells 15 

Silver 28 

Simon Creek 10 

Sierras 6, 9 

Sierra. {See name of.) 

Siguaneita 11 

Siguanea Bay and anchorage 8, 11, 13, 15 

Siguanea hill 9 

Siguanea, Rio de la 8, 12 

Siguanea Swamp 11 

Soil 15, 25, 26 

Soil, cultivation 26 

Soldado Estuary 11 

Status, political, of the Isle of Pines 32 

Steamer and railroad communications 17 

Streams, list of 7 

Sugar cane 27 

Sugar plantations 26 

Sugar production , . 26 

Tampa, communications 5, 17 

Tar 30 

Taxes 33 

Telegraph 18 

Temperature 14, 15 

Timber, area of 13, 25 

Tinas, Arroya de las 8 

Tobacco 27 

Tobacco, manufactures of 30 

Tobacco, plantations 26 

Tobacco, products 26 

Topography 9, 15 

Towns : 

Jucaro 20 

Nueva Gerona 19, 20 

Santa Fe 20 

Trades 15 

Turpentine 30 

Vegetable products (see Products of agri- 
culture) 26 

Villages: 

Acosta 20 

Almacijos 20 

Asciento de Santa Fe 20 



43 



Villages— Continued. 

Caleta Grande 20 

Canada 20 

Carapachivey 20 

Carboneros 20 

Caudal 20 

Cuchilla Alta 21 

Hospital _ 21 

Jorobado 21 

Lacimagua 21 

Las Nuevas 21 

Llevat 21 

Palma Alto 21 

Rosario 21 

San Jose 21 

San Juan 21 

San Pedro 21 

San Antonio 21 

San Francisco de las Piedras 21 

Santa Rita de Jagua 21 

Santa Rosalia 21 

Santa Teresa 21 

Seiba 21 



Villages— C ontinued. 

Sierra de la Caballos *. 22 

Sierra de Casas 22 

Vigia (La) Point 12 

Waters, chemical analysis of 14, 15 

Weaving 30 

Weights, equivalents in United States 

standards 32 

Winds 14 

Woods: 

Cedar 13 

Guairages 13 

Mahogany 13 

Mangles 13 

Palatianes 13 

Pine 13 

Prietos < 13 

Robles 13 

Sabicues 13 

Yayas 13 

Yayas, wood 13 

Yellow fever 15 

Yucatan, Mexico, distance 5 



S. Doc. 311, 59-1- 



o 



LBJe'06 



